Open the parawing indoors or in a calm yard. Learn the line layout, bar orientation, and how the canopy connects to the bar before you are standing on a windy beach.
Leading edge into the wind, trailing edge nearest you, canopy spread flat. Laid out this way the wing cannot inflate while you are still sorting it, and the lines sit in a clean fan.
Start at the bar and run your fingers along every line to the canopy, confirming none are crossed or wrapped. Before every single launch, no exceptions.
Most parawings color-code left and right lines (commonly red left, blue or green right, facing the wing) and mark the leading-edge center panel. Memorize your wing's scheme now; it is what lets you reorient a wet bundle on the water later.
Hold the bar at chest height, back square to the wind, and take small steps backward to inflate the canopy. Keep the bar neutral and feel where the wing sits in the window as you steer it side to side.
Deliberately let the wing fall, wad it up, and throw it back out to relaunch. This collapse-relaunch cycle is the drill that carries over to every stash and redeploy you will ever do on water.
An hour of beach flying buys you three on the water. A wingfoil wing is a rigid inflated frame: grab it anywhere and it keeps its shape. A parawing is a bedsheet on strings, and its entire advantage (that you can stash it into a waist belt mid-ride and glide free) exists because it is soft. Everything soft with lines can tangle. So the whole skill tree here is a chain of line-management moments: layout, launch, stash, redeploy, untangling in swell when something goes wrong. Land is the only place to learn that without a foil under you.
I still walk the lines before every launch, every session. The day you skip it is the day the wing spirals.
Foiling in another discipline: prone, SUP, wing, or kite foiling, any of them. Ground handling itself assumes nothing, but everything built on top of it does; see what parawing foiling is. Plus somewhere with clean wind: a wide beach, a field, a dyke, anywhere the airflow is not chewed up by buildings, trees, or a shorebreak bluff.
What is worth establishing on land is how dead your wing actually goes when you sheet out, because that is what you lean on when it gets strong. The input is the same on almost every current design, sheeting out onto the front (A) lines, but the result is not. A single-skin keeps pulling downwind when depowered, while double-skin designs keep driving even when sheeted right out (see riding upwind for what that costs and buys you). Find the motion until it is reflex, and find out where your own wing lands on that scale. It is the same input you will later use to kill power for a stash, survive a gust, and hold shape through a tack.
On sand the colored marks feel like box-ticking. But when you are treading water over a foil with a wet bundle in your hands, they are the only orientation you have. Duotone built its whole Stash concept around them: colored bridle sections, a colored LE mid-panel, a colored bar grip, all to speed up sorting. Line lengths on current parawings are short, which is a gift: tangles stay compact and resolve fast if you sort them instead of pulling on them.
Two hands on the bar for setup and power. Once the wing is flying, most riders steer one-handed with the front hand to free the other; on the water you will need that free hand for everything. Most also run a kite-style spreader-bar harness to take the load off their arms. Find your hook-in rhythm on land too.
The first episode of the free Flysurfer POW Academy covers the bridle system and the wind window; BRM hosts its own technique video library.
Next up: the water launch and the water start; you will be shocked how much of both is already done. The full curriculum is back at the learn hub.
No. It shortens the curve, because kite and paraglider pilots already read the wind window and handle bridle lines, but it is not a prerequisite. The experience that is required is foiling, in any discipline.
A steady, clean breeze matters more than a number. For pure land practice, light wind is plenty, and less is often better, as long as the airflow is smooth rather than the turbulent shore wind you get downwind of buildings and trees.